The Final Instalment

Checca Lodge was fantastic, great location great service and an all round good place to be but unfortunately we had just one more night on this wonderful trip. Our final stop was in Key West at the Ambrosia Inn on Fleming Street.

We set off along the Sea Highway on an overcast and humid day. Traffic, as with almost all the trip, was light so we bowled along enjoying the views and wondering at the changing landscape since Boston all those weeks ago.

Ambrosia Inn was just fantastic, a clapboard house a couple of small pools for keeping the temprature down - very much needed, and slap bang in the middle of Town for an easy stroll to all possible points of interest.

We unpacked - Philip taking the upstairs and me downstairs in our quaint (that word again) one up one down cabin. Then went off in search of lunch. We ended up in the Lighthouse on the Boardwalk where the waitress looked mightly relieved when we said we'd take a table in the airconditioned bar. It was dripping humid outside and 90 in old money.

The seafood and burgers arrived and we looked out across the harour with its mix of professional and day tripper fishing boats - lovely and busy. Groups of folks having a rest from the heat were hovering over their beers prolonging the need to go back outside - indeed so did we. Great spot for doing nothing in particular.

Eventually we strolled back through the subtripical gardens of Key West to our Inn. Philip to sit in air conditioning and read. Me to sit in the pool and read. Here's a helpful hint - it takes three of those long thin foam inflatables looped together in a pretsel like arrangement to support your head and upper back in such a way that if you then rest your feet on the pool steps you can float all day and read a book without it getting too wet.

As evening came it cooled just a little. We strolled to the southern most point in the USA admired some very strange architecture and strolled the length of Duval Street which still manages to retain some of the frontier style and spirit even though some of the chain stores are trying to turn it into yet another high street.  I just hope it manages to hang on in there, it would be a real shame to loose it's spirit to political correctness.

We went to Mallory Square for the pagan celebration of watching the sun set - unfortunately the oppressive cloud cover that had been with us all day rather blocked the idea of a setting sun but never mind, the conjourers and unicyclists were fun.

A pleasent meal of more burgers and seafood and a stroll back to the Inn. Both of us being rather sad that the trip was drawing to its close and in the morning we had to hand back the car and board our flight from Key West to Miami and then on to London.

After a deep and peaceful sleep we awoke to a splendid al-fresco breakfast by the pool. Bamboo and palm trees with the rustic clapboard houses all around us gave a truely relaxing start to the day.

We packed for the final time and set out to drop the hire car off.

We sort of liked the car in the way one sort of likes an old sofa. It was a Chrysler 200 drop top. It rode rather like a barge which meant all roads came over as smooth and comfortable. I had no idea what its turning circle was officially but Ark Royal could have given it a run for its money. As for acceleration it never gave me the impression that it had any but get it to its cruising speed and it would sit soundlessly, sip petrol (I don't think we spent more than USD 200 covering 2,103 miles) and swallow all bumps as it rode in a dead straight line even if you turned the steering wheel through half a lock. With the top down we could just get our minimal baggage into the boot. There was enought room when the hood was up for golf bags et-al but roof down - no chance. Would we buy one definitely not - would we hire one to cruise to the West Coast 'fraid not - it's got to be a Mustang.

Dropping the hire car off gave us a chance to drive around the back streets of Key West. For some reason - which can only be money related, Alamo decided to have its drop off point on the opposite side of the airport to all the other car hire firms. Luckily the competition was happy to advise us of this fact with knowing smiles. It was by pure luck that we spotted the tiny sign sitting back from the road for the drop off lot and was able to say goodbye to our trusty steed. There were fond glances back as we said goodbye after all she had delivered us safely through a horrible rain storm and done all that was asked of her.

Key West airport is perfect everything is 20 yards from one place to another and you stroll out to your plane parked on the pavement outside - once all are on-board and the door is closed it's 30 seconds until you are in the air. What was more pleasing however ,was that the barman in the terminal was doing a roaring trade in last minute Mojitos at 10 am in the morning. 

The flight to Miami was short and a much better way to retrace steps ather than turning back on one's self. It also gave us a chance to admire the Keys - they will be revisited.

Miami airport was rather like our impression of Miami - not a place we would go out of our way to revisit. Virgin did their bit taking us to London where with the absolute minimum of fuss we were through passport control and parting our ways, Philip in the hands of the local cab firm and I on to Istanbul.

It was a great drive - smooth and uncomplicated. The great American public treated us extremely well the entire length of our trip from ticket touts in Boston to diner waitresses in Florida it was fun.

The country is proud of what it's achieved and where it thinks it's going. It's proud of its armed forces in a way that I think is lacking in the UK. It is sometimes horribly schizophrenic with 50 yard billbords advertising the next church and sex supermarket jostling for space on the same stretch of highway. 

The radio stations are a scream just for the adverts that cary more legal waivers than the product information especially for medical stuff. The guys that read out the legal stuff must have the fittest tounges in the business!

The weather can be momentous, the storm we passed through on the way to Savannah was just extraordinary. The heavily wooded Eastern Seaboard was lovely to see with cities like Philedelphia almost dissappearing into the trees. The subtle change in vegitation from Boston to Key West was a slow story of how nature adapts to climate.

The bald eagle nest at Kennedy Space Centre was just extraordinary as were the olive green aligators resting in their creek but for me the most spectacular of all were the great lumbering pelicans of Bal Harbour. They were just the greatest reminder that flight is not easy.

We saw some extraodinary structures. Fenway Park, The Empire State Building, The Chrysler Building, Brooklyn Bridge, The USS Intrepid, The Statue of Liberty, The Vehcle Assembly Building, Saturn 5 rocket, The Capitol, St Augustine in general though Philip will dissagree, Savannah and 2,000 miles of I95.

The greatest surprise on the trip was the Police Museum at Cape Canaveral - it was thoughtful and had some truely magnificent exhibits such as Nixon's resignation letter and the 30's ganster memrobilia when the idea of gansters was still a little romantic.

The sprit of America is difficult to capture in a few lines or for any special place or event beause it's just so huge but the two places that capture a big chunk of this 'spirit' for me are Cape Canaveral for its engineering and 'can do' attitude overriden by the stupendous bravery of the astronauts and Duval Street for its ability to still be independent and a place of fun.

Great trip with great cmpany, wonderful sights, places and people. We will be back...

24-7-12

Hi Folks!

Our last full day in the US. We head to Key West.

After a wonderful breakfast we check out of our hotel having taken loads of pictures that don't do the place justice, get in our trusty steed and head south for the last time.

We have just 80 miles to go on US1. The Keys outside of our little paradise remain unremarkable, mile after mile. Then all of a sudden the causeways begin. The water turns from grey to aqua-marine and the sky is blue. The palm trees become more frequent and mile after mile slips by with ease.

We reach Key West -it's 94 deg F and 90% humidity and not a breath of air - the exact opposite of what an island climate should be like. We find our final resting spot - first time, and unpack.

A walk down to the harbour is exhausting. Lunch is great - as always and we stroll back. The little one to sit by an air conditioner and me to sit in a pool and read.

This evening we are going for sundowners at Mallory Square before hitting Duval Street. Should be good. This part of the blog will probably be written in various airport lounges tomorrow. Its hot!

23-7-12

Hi Folks!

Up with the lark at 9.30 we made it to breakfast. Humdinger - after a long while we returned to the room and changed into swimsuits for our morning exercise in sea kayaks. Off we went into the not so deep blue yonder paddling along as happy as can be. We didn't see any wildlife in the water but sat by at watched a large bird having a very happy bath from close range.

Oh I forgot to mention - loads of pelicans - brilliant birds, now officially my favourite.

We paddled around the mangroves out into open water basically we had fun.

We returned in time for lunch - which was excellent.

Then we hit the golf course in the mother of double or quit games. The first three holes were mine in blistering form. That was it Philip ground out the rest of the game winning ever other hole while I lost all my balls and a spare with two to play. Even after trying to apply a new version of the Duckworth Lewis scoring method to golf I couldn't contrive a win (unless balls lost counted again).

But the star of the round was a near three foot bright green lizard Philip nearly trod on. Now how can you nearly tread on a bright green lizard - well you can't see them if you're not looking for them and they are hidden in plain sight. Fantastic creature that looked put out we had disturbed him from his slumbers.

I didn't tell you about the alligators at Cape Canaveral did I - olive green and very, very fierce looking. We also saw a bald eagle nest which was about the size of a mini car (the new version). The occupants were apparently up north on holiday - NASA tracks them for fun. Because they can.

After golf we went for a cooling dip n the adult pool which was peace and serenity itself.

Suitably refreshed it was time for a relax. Philip watched some TV - I went for a walk and then a chat at the bar watching the pelicans. Then dinner a bit of TV and kip - wonderful day.

22-7-12

Hi Folks!

The skies were leaden for our drive south from Miami to the Keys.

We didn't get a great impression of Miami as we ventured down US1 and I95, perhaps we'll come back for a second visit before we write it off completely.

The weather was in short filthy as we drove out of Miami - getting onto the Keys was something of a disappointment - no elegant causeway no announcement - just grey skies and grey water. Anyway we plugged on.

And plugged on...

We were now passed 2,000 miles on our journey and the Keys were not lightening things up for us. The crazy local radio stations with there surreal adverts which only locals could possibly understand continued.

We figured if you want to advertise a drug in the US you basically must be insane given the list of side effects you also need to describe which are usually safely hidden in the small print which is wrapped around the tablet preventing you getting to your headache cure and is immediately discarded.

We get to Checca Lodge pull in at the gate - I get the dates right weird about Miami - and we are in jungle paradise.

We are offered champagne before we even announce our names and are ushered to our room with the minimum of formalities.

This place is wonderful - beach front, jungle paths to explore, pitch and putt, tennis kids snorkling pool in case the little darlings get eaten in the sea - real risk -  adult pool, fun pool, restaurants, bars inside and out and our home for the next two nights.

We had a fab lunch and then set off for a game of golf. Would you believe during the course of the golf the clouds lifted and we were in a beautiful blue sky streaked with white vapour trails.

Golf went remarkably well with my hitting two par 3 in the first 4 holes the unfortunate thing being the 10 shots taken on the other holes - Philip was much more consistent, and didn't manage to find the water with quite the ease my gorgeous shots seemed to. The end result was that the day belonged to him unless you care to use balls lost as a measure.

We retire to the clubhouse for a cold one. Sitting overlooking the ocean through palm trees at one with the world despite a devastating loss I was happy for one.

Dinner was fabulous - over which we hatched our activity plan for the following day.

Bed and sleep quickly followed - lovely...

21-7-12

Hi Folks!

Sorry we've been busy.

After an excellent evening at Cocoa we head back to Cape Canaveral. We arrive at about 11.00am only to find the Astronaught Hall of Fame doesn't open until noon. So we wondered over to the Police Hall of Fame...

This was an extraordinary museum, apart from pictures and artifacts from Al Capone, Dilinger, Bonny and Clyde there was Nixon's resignation letter and loads more - such as the police car from Blade Runner a great exhibit on forgery, terrific stuff. It was also sad to see how many men an women had lost their lives doing an honest days work.

Anyway, off to the other Hall of Fame. Hardly anyone there to see space capsuals up and close, spacesuits and other stuff that has been to the moon and back. There were also famous astronaughts. Some of the Space Shuttle crew members (Chan Diaz) have been into space 7 times - compared to Armstrong and Lovell twice and three times respectively. In total 17 lives have been lost - 3 for Apollo 1 and 14 for the two shuttles Columbia and Challenger.Remarkable when you think of the ground breaking science and technology being employed and the distances being travelled.


We set off south again on I95. This time we are headed for Miami.


We get to Fort Lauderdale and drive along the front but then it gets too confusing and as we were getting tired I bought a map of Miami - which my co-pilot informs me is useless. We continue south and find our next hotel in Bal Harbour. We had arrived a day late so our comfortable room becomes rather less comfortable and I get the roll out bed.


We stroll across to the beach and on up to the restaurant in One Bal Harbour appropriately named Mr Collins - Command Module Commander on Apollo 11. Dinner was fantastic made more so by watching the pelicans. Now if you've never seen a pelican fly it's a sight worth seeing. They are the first birds I have see that make no bones about the sheer effort required to get airborne. They literally haul themselves into the air and rapidly descend before hauling themselves up again. Only to repeat the whole process yet again..


The food was fantastic but not quite as magnificent as the cutlery which presented the unsuspecting diner with what can only be described as a Bowie knife with which to attack almost dead cow and fish - wonderful.


Then off to a contented nights snoring... 

20-7-12

Hi Folks!

What a day.

Today we went to Cape Canaveral, sat in spacecraft, saw launch pads - saw rockets on launch pads, space suits, more rockets, massive rockets, lunar landers, rovers, robots, and ate space food! It was fantastic. And all real.

It's really difficult to describe the place, seeing the crawler, the only Saturn 5 and space capsule still in one piece plus the control rooms and all the other bits that make these things work. We were there for 5 hours happy as Larry. We go back for more tomorrow.

The hotel is on Cocoa Beach. We did our laundry had dinner - a burger and marlin talked about the best way of getting to Mars and now sit in bed writing this with a grin.

What can I say about the space centre? It was indescribable, we are coming back for a launch...

19-7-12

Hi Folks!

We set off south again for St Augustine - the oldest city in the USA.

After a drive through the city we pick up the I95 - our wooded route of choice for this trip.

The countryside is changing as we go through the low country - as they call the marshland through which we are travelling. The radio stations are rather bizzare, especially the adverts - the music is stuck in 1970s soft rock - I've never heard so much Steve Miller Band, Fly Like an Eagle is played on the hour every hour on every station as far as I can figure.

Some of the trees are impossibly tall and straight - they must be a mast builders delight.

The skies are heavy and stayed heavy all day with spits and spots of rain.

We pitch up in St Augustine mid afternoon and park our car outside our room - the only time we have done this in our trip. After lunch in a Denny's - not a culinary triumph - we stroll into town.

The Spanish built the fort in 1562 - its the oldest structure in the USA, how about that? The high street is full of national monuments - the oldest wooden school house being just one. I found it really charming and quaint two words I never thought I'd use in America.

We strolled around the town and the fort - even took a drive over to the beach. On the return we were delayed by a schooner passing through the drawbridge - very fitting.

It remained a little gloomy but didn't dampen our spirits even if P found the whole place a little fake - actually - very fake!

That evening we had a fantastic meal - flounders and steaks - wonderful. A bunch of hedge fund managers were making a hash of a pitch to some money managers - P found it really amusing...

And then bed...

18-7-12

Hi Folks!
Up and out from Wilmington to Savannah - the second longest drive of the tour.

Everything was going swimmingly - then the weather turned. We saw the black clouds massing for a couple of hours as we drove through the woods - remember them, they are still going strong.

We had a lovely lunch at Hardees - really nice.

Then we hit the road again. The clouds continued to build.

We decided to turn off the Interstate to put the roof up. We rejoined the Interstate just as the rain started, spits and spots turned to rain, turned to a downpour, turned into a torrent, turned into a waterfall -  visibility was down to 10 yards - no more. Water was building to 3 inches on the road, cars were pulling off and couldn't be seen if they didn't have their hazard lights on and 16 wheel trucks were still travelling at 60 MPH. This went on for 2 hours as we made our way south.

Then as suddenly as it came - it went. And we made our was to Savannah, through the woods.

After a few trips around the block we found our hotel - which was lovely. It was situated right in the heart of old Savannah. Luckily a local citizen gave us the perfect suggested tour - and off we set through Southern clapboard mansions and Colonial churches. Trees draped in lichen, lush garden squares, and statues to the great and good, mainly Yorkshire men, something is clearly not quite right when this happens and then you learn they banned strong liquor - only to gain the reputation as the hardest drinking state - typical.

Anyway we escape from the heat into quite possibly the coolest coffee bar ever - Lou Reed on the stereo vanilla cream sodas to die for and the best cookies ever baked - Savannah is about to launch a whole new Starbucks.

We made our way down to the waterfront where the old warehouses have been turned into restaurants and shops of varying quality. We had an OK dinner watching the shipping which included an enormous container ship and some bust ferries.

Then off to bed...

17-7-12

Hi Folks!

Up with the lark - is and off we set on the longest drive of the trip. Washington to Wilmington.

Now for those of you have forgotten - we are doing this without a map. After striking out in the general direction of the Capitol - again - we aim for the river and a bridge across the Potomac River. This was rather more difficult than it may seem. There was a rather large bridge being built which will be fantastic when its finished but the 60 meter gap was something for a challenge for us.

We missed the turning - which was something of a goat track and had a really good look around Bailey's Crossroads until we found signs again for the trusted I95 written in crayon on orange post-its - no kidding.

Then we were off - south.

Now folks I'm not known for my green credentials but I'm having a great deal of trouble in understanding where we can fit more trees into North America on this evidence - it was just a solid wall of wood. Nothing happened we just travelled south on great roads through woods for hundreds of miles with a break for fuel and hamburgers - then more woods - and more - you get the idea.

Then we pitch up in Wilmington - no map straight to the hotel - no problem. The room has amazing views across the river to the USS North Carolina. We stroll into town. This is the first time we had seen some strains of the economic crisis with some empty shop fronts.

Those businesses that were still open appeared to be thriving. We had a great dinner of fresh oysters and local fish which was top draw.

Philip decided he didn't want to join the local quiz night. I stayed and came third - with some help - the full story is for another time but safe to say Virginia has some great school teachers!

Happy and content we turn in - in Wilmington...

16-7-12

Hi Folks!
A little delayed I'm now catching up with things.

The second day in Washington. We walk to the Capitol, it started out as cool calm and collected but by the time we get to the pool in front of the Capitol building we are mere grease blobs.

We queue and get the most polite bit of security one could ever encounter. And in we were, the Capitol building - we hooked up with a tour and off we went.

Through the crypt and up into the Rotunda itself. Ronnie Reagan now has his statue there along with Gerald Ford. We went into the first chamber again full of statues - each state having the right to field one statue and change them whenever they have the money - some states have not had anybody of note since the Civil War so the statue is now of someone who doesn't really figure in mainstream events - very interesting.

The next piece was a piece of luck for us. The guide sent us down to a desk at which we could get a ticket to the House of Representatives - so in we went, rather strangely we found ourselves wondering around empty corridors and eventually into the gallery - unfortunately the House was not sitting but the effect was not lost.

Then we went through the tunnel to the Library of Congress. Fantastic building - very understated. The reading room was rather shrine like - perhaps appropriate.

Next stop Georgetown, by taxi... It was hot. Nice lunch listening to a rather paranoid, neurotic young lady explain to her ex-boyfriend the events of a party - or something.

Then in search of a building the name of which I had miss-remembered. In any case we didn't find Bell's laboratory but we did wonder round Georgetown which is rather special especially at 95 deg F and 90% humidity - we were melting. We had a nice chat to an antiques dealer and a man serving coke, behind a bar. Enough we accepted failure rather grateful and decided to walk to the British Embassy - just to have a look. It was up on Embassy row - which we chose to reach via the Navel Observatory - the highest point in Washington. It was as if we were climbing the Matterhorn.

The long and the short of it - we got there. Now the British Embassy in Washington looks rather like a secondary modern and a minor public school. Rather fitting but not classy, distinctive or in any way stylish. The Brazilian Embassy was an ultra modern admin building plus a chateau - extremely stylish. In town the Canadian Embassy took our eye as a really classy modern building. Our other favourite was the Cote de Ivorie rather distinctive.

We walked all the way back to the Inn. Exhausted - again. After a shower we stopped off at Rumors for a bite. Then bed....

15-7-12

Hi Folks!

Yesterday was hot and humid and boy did we know it. We walked the length of the Mall and more. We did give up and get a taxi from the Lincoln Memorial - but more later.

After a great breakfast with the egg situation being explained - eggs over easy being how to describe a runny fried egg - we set off. The location of the Inn means that it takes about 10 minutes to walk to the Mall. From there we turn left toward the Washington Monument and then head off toward the Air & Space Museum.

By the time we arrive at the museum we are very grateful for the water sellers. My grey Yankee t-Shirt was a very much darker shade than it was originally intended. The Air & space Museum was even more fantastic than I remember it nearly 20 years ago. The space capsual are now entirely wrapped in perspex but the size of them - or rather just how small they are is still striking.

They now have mock-ups of the Hubble and a walk-in Skylab - and more planes than I remeber including the front end of a 747. The space suit collection looks to have expanded including suits that went to the moon - with dust still on the knees. Oh and I forgot a piece of moon rock you could touch.

We spent a good couple of hours going around the museum before setting off for the Capitol. Beautiful building but shut. We are going there today. We set off for lunch to Capitol Lodge (burnt down twice since I was last there).

We then walked all the way to the Lincoln Memorial. Stunning - then the Vietnam wall. Still thought provoking and emotional even though it is now the standard way of presenting loss of life - its difficult to remember just how controversial it was when it was first unveiled.

The WWII memorial built by George W. looks rather more Nuremberg than I think was the intention but is non-the-less impressive.

We collapsed into a cafe for drinks and an ice cream. then the taxi back to the Inn. Phew...

That evening Philip found the perfect restaurant, the Daily Grill, an ocean liner style room with lovely food. Very relaxing. Then bed what another busy day.

Speak again tomorrow.

14-7-12

Hi Folks!

Let me finish yesterdays tale... You will recall we were all going out to dinner. Well we met up with Michael's sister - Amy and her son Matt at Mad Mex, not quite Mad Max but definitely somewhere that would not look out of place in the Thunderdome just on the noise alone. It was fantastic, the food was really spicy Mexican, the atmosphere all American. We had fun.

Luckily the desert was just a little late in arriving so Jacob and I solved Liverpool's problems. So brilliant is the solution that I thought I would share it with you. First and Jacob is a brilliant midfielder, he would join the playing staff, but here is the stroke of genius, as a package I would join him at the club as first team coach for free! Simple, no one has thought of this before. Then the master plan is to recruit the entire Spanish team declare independence from the UK and Bob's your uncle, and he was, you have the ability to play in the Premiership as team and the World Cup as a country.  The e-mails between Fenway Park and Anfield will be red hot come Monday morning.

Wonderful evening.

The next morning. We visited the all American diner for a breakfast of eggs and pancakes with lashings of coffee. Replete, we visited the sights of Jenkinstown, the school, the cinema, and the new Town Square and visited the Velvet Sky Bakery where we were treated to quite simply the very best in cup cakes. This really is a lovely part of America.

We made our goodbyes and left our dear hosts in Philadelphia and headed for Washington.

Without a map and a pencil drawing of our location we headed south - picking up the I95 again. The scenery changed again, we were back to lush greenery. With overcast skies and a little rain we were forced to keep the roof on for longer than at any time previously on the journey - which helped the various scorched parts of our bodies.

We plodded along via the very busy interstate passing some cities we didn't know the name of and some we did - because we read the signs, this was good. We followed the signs for a service station such was the long and winding road getting to the halt we were certain we would never find the Interstate again and were resigned to getting to Washington on a mud track. But all was well.

We saw Baltimore...

The pencil map was perfect and with only a small detour around the magical one way system Washinton possesses we arrived at our destination safe and sound.

We are staying at the Dupont Inn it is wonderful. Creaking stairs, rooms of charachter and space plus it's walking distance to all that matters.

All packed into our room we set out to explore in the early evening.

We walked down to the White House, the Pres was busy, up to the Washington Memorial an dthen to the roof bar in the Washinton Hotel, a Philip discovery - quite brilliant looking down on the White House.

We strolled back to our Inn via Luigi's were we had a well deserved Italian of true class served by a Russian lady who had no idea what was on the menu - quite lovely.

And here we are refreshed relaxed and up to date, tomorrow will be another day... 

13-7-12

Hello Folks!
Today we did Philadelphia. We set off from Jenkins Town Station for the 20 minute train ride into the centre of town.

Exiting the station we walked along Market Street toward the river. After a pit stop for  burger, we walked through the historic centre. Independence Hall, Liberty Bell, lovely Georgian buildings - very English.

We strolled down the length of Walnut Street reaching the Delaware River, we visited the war ship USS Olympia and the submarine USS Becuna and one of the very few floating  early 20th century four masted grain ships, Moshulu. The name means Dreadnought (Fear nothing) in the local Seneca language. It was made famous by Eric Newby as it was the ship he sailed to Australia in his novel The Last Grain Race. Now its a rather splendid restaurant and bar.

We strolled back through Chestnut Street - between 1st and 3rd street we came across some really nice looking restaurants and boutiques, doubtless this area will slowly spread to link up with the Liberty historic area.

We enjoyed the river front and the historic buildings which really put one in mind of a prosperous English market town. But the spread of the place, along the river and through the suburbs we travelled hinted at a much larger community than was immediately obvious. The low rise buildings and abundant greenery hid the extent of the buildings around the city centre.

We took the train back to our hosts and relaxed, penning this piece and watching Narnia. Later this evening a whole group of us is going out for dinner - which should be fun.

13-7-12

Hello Folks!

The morning after the night before and I stroll off down to MoMA. Wonderful building with some of the greatest hits of the art world in the early 20th Century. But pretty safe stuff. Nothing by Gilbert & George, Damien Hirst, Tracey Emin et al, I found that surprising but nowhere near as surprising that I didn't see a Wood, Pollack or Lichenstien and only one Warhol.

We packed our belongings in various small bags and checked out. The car was waiting for us outside - we has a list of instructions from the Concierge and we were set to drive to Michael and Vicki's in Philadelphia.

You will note a list of instructions - not a map.

Off we set through the south end of Manhattan to cross over to New Jersey. All went well until some confusing signage at the New Jersey Turnpike, once that was solved it was plain sailing.

The turnpike out from the city was remarkable for its lack of character. From Boston to New York the road had been through beautiful woods. We were now travelling through what could best be described as scrub - with advertising hoardings. It was just so surprising how quick this change came about. The traffic was good natured and smooth flowing in addition the lorries were kept to a separate set of lanes.

Anyway after an effortless drive we pitched up at our host's home. Their house is a really beautiful mid-hall colonial home. Dark wood floors, beamed ceilings and a wonderful garden to boot.

Our hosts were all as hospitable as you could hope for - though the leg licking was a bit strange, we put it down to American custom. Sadie is a lovely dog an Alsation/Pit Bull cross at a best guess which has turned out the most beautiful natured pooch.

The boys do what boys do - not much and we had a great chance to catch-up.

After a very relaxing meal of the most tender of steaks we collapsed into our beds content...

11-7-12

Hello Folks!
this morning we went to the Empire State Building, just wow. Everything they say about the structure is true and more - the remarkable thing is the interior the art deco wall decorations - brass furnishings  all add to a quite unique 'feel'.

The queues were long and rather tedious as one felt one was getting close to going up only to find that the was another snake to go through. Eventually we found ourselves on the 102nd floor and WOW! For those of you who don't know where the 102nd floor it was where King Kong's left foot was when he was holding onto the airship landing spire.

We took snaps of the view looking down on our previous observation deck on the Rockerfeller Building by 40 odd floors.

On leaving the Empire State we walked across to the Hudson and jumped on board a sightseeing boat to go around the southern en of Manhattan and out to the Statue of Liberty. The photos say it all quite outstanding.

We stood at the back of the boat watching the world go by - the buildings and bridges looking even more massive from sea level. What a City!

The Statue of Liberty is quite lovely - majestic in a graceful way which must ave been a hugely uplifting sight to those that were just entering the country on nearby Ellis Island.

On leaving the boat we walked back across town along 42nd street through Times Square when a raging thirst took hold.

We sidled into a quite little spot and enjoyed a quiet hour - with restaurant and club recommendations ringing in our ears we set off to find a basement Japanese restaurant which was all the rage. It was - we felt transported back to Tokyo - the goyza and ramen were totally authentic as were the yakatori sticks - wonderful.

As we ambled back to the hotel we were well fed and watered and slept like babes...

10-7-12

Hello Folks!

What a day. By the end I was totally exhausted - and never thought I would be so grateful for a Pepsi, so what happened.

All started well with a late breakfast - the full works. Then we set off across the Island to pier 86 the Intrepid  Museum. For those that don't know the Intrepid is a US aircraft carrier, around this has grown a collection of planes including a Blackbird and a Concorde plus a submarine - The Growler and the Souyz craft used by  Greg Olsen. What a display - huge thought, provoking and brilliant set out.

A highlight was a guided trip into the Concorde including a trip into the cockpit! It was brilliantly done.

But the stars of the show were two simulator rides. The first was a fighter ace ride which was a full 360 movement simulator - Philip was pilot we chased planes around the sky going upside down (really upside down) banking and generally being made to feel pretty ill!

The second ride was a virtual rollercoaster, in 4D! Oh wow was I scared. You went on a virtual ride with wind in your hair, seat moving in time with the 3D screen. The buggy you were in leapt over impossible voids banked at impossible angles and sped down vertical drops - oh my. The fighter simulator was easy by comparison!

The submarine was one of 4 built designed to fire nuclear cruise missiles. One of the flaws of the program was that it took 15 minutes to surface and fire which meant that within 30 minutes the submarine would be located and destroyed - not really an incentive to fire the missiles.

After the museum we walked back to Rockerfeller Plazza in search of a pizza slice. We were directed to a real pizza dive! it was lovely. Then it was to the Top of the Rock on the roof of the Rockerfeller Center. Exceptional views - really stunning. We hope the photos come out well.

Then we strolled up to Central Park and the Pepsi - 6 hours we had been on our feet!

We jumped into a cab and headed back to the hotel. That evening we went to Smith and Wolensky's for a steak - Philip didn't finish his side of cow - just too much.

Bead exhausted,  hence the late filing of this blog. More of the same today - we're off...

9-7-12

Hello Folks!

Today I am totally smug, we drove from Essex to our hotel in NYC without a map. One of the side effects of this is that we spent so long in Brooklyn that Philip now has a slight accent which is a little embarrassing in the Upper East Side - but hey we'll sort something out.

All went well on our trusty I95. We went over the toll bridge to Long Island with the intention of crossing to Manhattan via the Brooklyn Bridge. It is here that we became locals with people commenting that if we spent so much time in town why not rent an apartment, it would save on gas...

Much of the run in New England continued to be in the forest - quite spectacular. It is difficult to describe just how green New England is - England  - the old one - looks quite bare by comparison - the only place I can think of that looks in any way similar in the south of England is the Forest of Dean, and whilst beautiful it's tiny by comparison to New England where you drive hundreds of miles in deep green woods.

Anyway as we passed through the Western New England cities it became clear we were getting ever closer to the Big One. As we crossed the Toll Bridge we had the most fantastic views of Manhattan. It really is a magnificent achievement - the men and women who have built Manhattan have done a remarkable job. It is difficult to convey just how many huge buildings have been constructed on Manhattan, lyrics in songs describing canyons of glass and steel don't really do the place justice - the variety of huge buildings is quite awesome - in the true sense of the word.

Off the Toll Bridge things became a little  tricky. We often went in loops (rather like this piece) in attempts to keep the compass pointing South West - heading for the Brooklyn Bridge. This was more difficult to achieve than it would seem as the CIP and the Union Parkway - and some other Parkway - there are lots of trees on Long Island too kept conspiring to take us East and we needed South West.

That's why we got to know and love Brooklyn...

Brooklyn is lovely, we know we have seen most of it. Signage is not a strong point on the minor roads on the suburbs. We spent a reasonable amount of time enjoying the real estate around this part of town - which is actually really-really nice. Long straight tree lined avenues. Street side cafes of considerable style and a calm and politeness in driving which is absent in many places, though it seems that this is the style in the US.

Anyway, we are still in Brooklyn. Actually, we were under the Beltway on 3rd Avenue. Imagine an underground Jamaica Rd with the Hammersmith elevated section stuck on top, only 10 times as long.

We get to the very south of Brooklyn and turn and get on the Beltway itself - on top. And we see the Statue of Liberty as well as amazing views of the Lower East Side - Wall St. The Beltway kept on wanting to take us to the tunnel - we didn't want to enter Manhattan underground. We kept on going - it was slow... Very slow. And hot.

And then it all came into view the Brooklyn Bridge, a slip road and signs sending us in the direction we wanted to go. We were on...

Up and over the bridge, it was an outstanding view, United Nations building, Met Life (Pan Am building) Chrysler, Empire State and Rockerfeller buildings - just there all in a single view.

Off the bridge in Manhattan and just follow the street numbers - go west to Madison ad up to 48th and job done - even when we overshot it was s easy to do a loop and get onto 48th St.

Checked in parked the car as smooth as you like.

In the evening we went to Madison and Vine - great fish - huge burger and great ravioli. After that I thought I'd try a Martini - my first ever. It was awful - I'll not have another!

Tomorrow is another day.

8-7-2012

Hi Folks - the map thing...

I was just a junction short of my theory being proven but I folded and bought a map. This is just too sad, it really was just a half a mile and I would have been insufferably smug. But you know if I had carried on, mapless, we could have become lost in the Carolinas.

I write from the Tap Room of the Griswold Inn, the oldest Inn in America, listening to some very good live Blues.

Today has been a Revolutionary day. We left Boston, as smooth as you like - without a map, and headed on South to Plymouth - it is in Essex that they built the Oliver Cromwell (look it up) you get the flavour.

Taking Route 95 south we found ourselves going north west very shortly after leaving the City limits. But we kept our bottle and the route veered back south. With brilliant navigation by Philip we managed to fine Route 44 and head to Plymouth. It's tiny. We turned left at the rotary (roundabout) rather than right which took us another 45 minutes to correct - but we did call at Bert's Landing - for those in the know, this is seriously cool Kennedy country.

Eventually, we arrived at the Mayflower II. A rather less impressive exhibit than the Golden Hind. The highlight being the Plymouth Rock (which was free as opposed to the 20 bucks to go on the Mayflower II) with it's date stamp of 1620 (we think). That's it - the Founding Father's and all the Bostonian pride associated with being related to the Mayflower passengers we were really expecting to see more, get more of a feeling about these people who really risked everything for a better way of life. There are more documents of interest in a pub in Rotherhide than in Plymouth.

Anyway - we set off for Providence with the intention of ending up at Spikes Dogs - a hot dog stand. Again Philip's navigation got us onto the Interstate. We hurtled through Providence in a blur with the remarkable sign choice of Colchester and N.Y. City.

Then we set off toward Essex.

From leaving Boston to getting to Essex we have travelled through unbroken forest. With the roof down the smell of pine was extraordinary. The skies were blue, blue, blue - the skin is now a beautiful shade of pink!

Essex is impossibly beautiful New England. Clapboard houses leafy lanes, beautiful yachts on beautiful river moorings. Its just so perfect one can only imagine intrigue behind every perfect shuttered window. The general store even had perfect after sun cream!

We have feasted on cod and steak, in wonderful surroundings with great music. Glowing quietly...

7th July 2012

Hello Folks!

Yesterday our friends at Virgin delivered us to Boston on time and in great nick.

After a wonderful nights sleep we launched ourselves at the breakfast counter - well at least I did Philip was far more reserved just having the waffles with a bucket of Maple Syrup, cream and strawberries. My cooked breakfast, mini waffles and blueberry pancakes looked rather reserved in comparison.

After a short taxi ride through town - which our driver described beautifully, we picked up the car - more of which at a later point.

We drove back though town enjoying the mansions on Beacon Hill, doing a few loops of Copley Sq getting back to the hotel before deciding that's not where we wanted to go and setting off across the river to Cambridge in search of MIT's museum. Despite not having a map we found it after asking only one person who gave the most straight forward set of directions ever received.

The MIT museum did not disappoint - many of the great robots of the modern age were on display amongst holograms and other displays about artificial intelligence. Very inspiring, makes you wonder what they are working on now.


After MIT we drove back to the hotel and dropped off the car and went in search of Fenway Park, the baseball ground in Boston. We found it by following people who looked like they knew where they were going. After some of the greatest ticket negotiating tactics of all time we found ourselves in the Bleachers at Fenway watching the Red Sox v the New York Yankees on Saturday afternoon having paid less than the face value ofthe tickets. Fenway Park is celebrating its 100th birthday this year which is good going by any sporting venue. Lovely ground, lovely atmosphere and what's more great mowing of grass on display.


With zero idea of what was going on on the pitch we sat back and listened to the conversation going on all around us. Folks, the the great American public has come to terms with the financial crisis and is looking forward. The conversation was about the great deals on new model cars, vacations to be taken in the Bahamas and family plans for the Thanksgiving holidays. And this was in the cheap seats.


The game sparked into life with consecutive home runs by the Yankees! Then the spits and spots of rain become a little too much and we retired for a hot dog in the bowels of the stadium. We then went for some retail therapy- a Red Sox replica jersey costs $ 175.00. I d hope that Fenway Sports, the owners of the Red Sox and Liverpool, direct the spare cash to Liverpool rather than the Red Sox who appeared to be something of a lost cause losing 6-1 in the afternoon game. 


At the time of writing the Red Sox are 5-3 to the good in the 6th in the night game. I have no idea what all this means but those are the facts.


After the ball park we returned to the hotel with the objective of going for a swim only to find the pool full of small people making a lot of noise - we went for a walk on a beautiful afternoon - the rain clouds having moved on.


Wondering around Boston we found stylish avenues populated by designer shops and street cafes, all very chic. And as if by accident, we found ourselves in Cheers! It was rather a lost cause on Philip as he is too young to drink or to know the TV series. The bar is massively over commercialized to a degree 'only in America'. That having been said it was an incredibly popular spot with a genuine bar atmosphere - great fun.


We left Cheers! and wondered back through the park, through Copley Sq back to the hotel stopping at 5Napkins Burgers for dinner.


After dinner we collapsed back at the hotel - very satisfied at our days work and half watching the ball game. The commentators are speaking but making no sense what so ever! Someone is pitch hitting for someone else - what on earth is that all about?


Tomorrow we are of to Plymouth, then Providence ending up in Essex. Philip is expressing some concern about my wishing to the entire trip without buying a map, relying entirely on free hand out maps. His concern is heightened by our destination tomorrow night not actually being on the map I intend using to get us close enough to our destination to ask someone for directions. I worked perfectly this morning I see no reason whatsoever that is shouldn't work again tomorrow. 


We'll keep you posted.